Proper Maintenance of European Cars

Maintenance is #1 to any machine.  Proper maintenance to modern cars is absolutely essential.

Essential Maintenance

Performing the essential maintenance with the right fluids designed for the vehicle is an absolute must.

Naturally we do have a plethora of pictures of vehicles where the wrong fluids were used or maintenance was performed late.   The damage is caused by it, could get really expensive to correct.

Here is a partially encrusted AMG engine with too late oil changes and wrong oil has been used to top up the oil level. It will have dire consequences in the long term.

Click on the thumbnail  to view bigger photo.

Engine Oils & Manufacturer’s Recommendations

Let me explain please: If you use an oil in your car other than that specifically recommended by the manufacturer you will cause major damage to very expensive components in your car’s engine.

Today’s engines are designed and engineered with a specific way hence their manufacturer engine  specific approvals, which may or may not similar to the oils being sold at retail stores.

The old viscosity and API approvals are long gone.  Most manufacturers are very strict in their own special (concoction) a special chemical composition which is by itself is literally a science.

All this effort is being put into the goal to reduce friction, pumping losses and minimize engine wear on today’s super efficient but fragile engines.

On a high performance, AMG engine, one improper oil change can result in thousands of dollars worth of damage.

The other picture is a Mini Cooper S with a major and massive cooling system failure.  Wrong fluid used to top the cooling system up, which caused a complete cooling system failure.  The entire cooling system needed to be repaired.  It took considerable effort to minimize the damage.  The water pipe and  water pump essentially removed.  All the hoses to be cleaned  and flushed multiple times.

Modern high tech European cars are designed with very vehicle specific lubricants. Fluids with an exact chemical composition are essential to have your fine car last and perform as intended.

Any questions, how may we help? Call us for more details: 905.795.0419

Related:Information and the key features of our services and programs. Type of service that we offer, specializing on fine European cars.

Ester Core full synthetic motor oils from Motul.

BMW & Mercedes Benz Preventative Maintenance

Information and the key features of our services and programs. Type of service that we offer, specializing on fine European cars.

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What kind of car should I buy?

The question of what kind of car should I buy? Electric, hybrid, conventional gas or diesel?

There are so many announcements lately, this company or that company going full electric on such and such day in the very near future. Really?

Let me begin with the fact I have been driving 3 kinds of hybrid predominantly in the last 8 years so I have some idea about it perhaps.

The Full Electric Car Conundrum

Should I or shouldn’t I jump the ship and go full electric? Both feet in, kind of just do it. Right?

Going electric has it’s advantages and some disadvantages.  Let’s see what are the cons and the pros.

The pros are:  The electric car will need less service as there are a lot less components to be dealt with. A full electric car will cost less money to run, to “fuel” or fill up and to maintain it.

Correct, these are the pros, providing it’s made half decently, it should be fine for a while.

How long? The battery pack has an 8 years manufacturer warranty so your battery pack should be fine for 8 years mostly worry free.

Keep one thing in mind it’s your responsibility to maintain a decent level of battery charge.  Meaning you can’t just leave and have your car sit for months on end.

It must be plugged in to get replenished or maintained, if you leave your vehicle for an extended period of time for any reason.

Also, a full electric vehicle is better for the environment over its entire life cycle than a gas-powered vehicle.

Electric cars, during everyday use, lower greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions than gas-powered vehicles. The electric vehicle, biggest environmental impact is produced during manufacturing.

Cons are: You will need to work with the battery range on board and the time to have it recharged.  It could take considerable time and some effort especially in the winter when range anxiety is a real thing.

Electric cars have numerous different charging rates from basic 110 v to 800v systems. The higher the voltage the faster the charging rate is in direct correlation.

Electric BMW i4


Hybrid propulsion, which is both often convenient and has a very reasonable gas mileage, depending on the size of the battery. You may use only the electric motor, especially for quick local trips like going shopping or for groceries.

There are myriad different hybrids, so you will need an expert’s advice or need to study the subject vehicle as each has their specific traits like pros and cons.

Plug-in hybrids are very convenient and will cut your fuel cost substantially.  They are fairly complex. Having dual propulsion is inevitably more complex than having one.

Most electric and hybrid vehicles will have a sub 12 volt system. Which will require a traditional battery replacement every 4 to 5 years or so, to keep the on board consumers working properly.

Electric or high output hybrids  have a separate high voltage system. Mostly 380v or higher predominantly to provide the electric motor with large quantities of stable electricity when required.

The traditional consumer operated systems are 12v only at this point onward to prevent high voltage systems getting near the occupants of the vehicle at all times for safety reasons.

Pros and Cons for Hybrid Cars

Pros of the hybrid cars are ease of use and convenience. In most cases, if you run out of electricity the vehicle can continue on the on board gas engine. Some electric cars have similar set up for instance the i3 which has a REX on board.

Cons are: You have the complexity of the dual propulsion and have a battery to deal with as well. No special interaction required except if it’s a plug in hybrid. If you drive a plug in hybrid, than you are encouraged to have it plugged in to be recharged, as soon as possibly can.

Again just like an electric car, you can’t leave the vehicle unplugged for extended periods of time, or the battery pack will be damaged. All you need to do is plug it in into the wall and forget about it for storage purposes.

Repair and Maintenance

Finding a hybrid or electric vehicle specialist in case you need it, might not be simple. Especially if you live somewhere in a small town or in a small city.

Conventional Gas or Diesel Vehicles

Then there are the conventional gas or diesel vehicles which have been through a tremendous change in the last decade or so and still going on as we speak.

Pros and cons for the conventional gas or diesel vehicles are numerous. The pros are: Ready to repair and maintain anywhere. Easy to refuel and quick to do so. The network to repair and maintain the vehicle is straightforward, no special procedure and minimal preparation required for long term storage.

Cost of maintenance spread out over time, unlike say a lithium ion battery replacement on an electric vehicle.

Cons are: Emission is greater than hybrid or electric. Maintenance is more prevalent, requires periodic fluid and component replacement. Need to refueling to keep it mobile and tend to be noisier than hybrid or electric vehicles.

There are many other advantages and disadvantages of all of the electric, hybrid or traditional consumer operated systems.   I can talk about them for hours.

At the end, you have to make the decision: Which one to buy? It’s totally up to you and your needs and maybe your location where you live.

Your decision should be based on your needs. How are you going to drive that car? Short trips, long drives, or just leisure driving?

Any questions? How may we help? Telephone: 905.795.0419

Bosch ServiceTechmax Auto Repair Inc.

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Today’s Modern European Cars Engine

Diesel Combustion & Emission Control System Within

How does it work?

Let’s start with the combustion process, air contains 78% nitrogen and 20.8% oxygen. If it’s compressed to a small space fast, the air becomes super heated and we spray diesel fuel into the hot compressed air and we will get a combustion.

NOX gas (Nitrogenoxyde)

What else will we get? We get quite a lot of NOX gas (nitrogenoxyde) which is an irritant pollutant gas hazardous to human health.

Diesel Engine Issues

The common NOX sensor issue at hand.

The usual phone call starts like this, I have a Diesel Mercedes or BMW and my car is telling me I have an incorrect fluid in my reduction system.

Diesel exhaust emission system test and the test
results with the failed components.
Click on the thumbnail to view bigger image.

Let’s clarify a few things.
#1; Your Diesel vehicle has no AI (artificial intelligence) it has a computer system which is programmed by humans, so it can only tell you what it knows or gets feedback, so consecutively it will tell you what has been programmed to tell you.

#2; When the information system tells you your vehicle has an incorrect fluid in it, 99.99% it is lacking of SCR (selective catalyst reduction) system efficiency. It means one thing, your computer system doesn’t see the emission reduction of the NOX gas, so it will automatically default by blaming the quality of the ad blue (urea) SCR fluid as it is programmed to do so.

SCR Fluid Reservoir

Before you drain your entire SCR fluid reservoir it can be tested (by a professional) for fluid strength which has 13% ammonia solution.

The emission system on modern diesels is very complex. I could write here pages and pages how the EGR system with the SCR injection and the NOX catalyst working together to effectively reduce the amount of NOX gases.

Suffice to say, if your reduction system doesn’t work properly, or the computer doesn’t see the efficiency, due to dead NOX sensors or myriad other SCR issues at hand, will default to a single message as per above.

In case, the driver ignores the warning long enough the computer will start a no start count down, where the system control will eventually refuse to start the engine and must be towed to have it repaired properly.

Please keep a few important points in mind. Any emission component is expensive due to high tech nature, and many cases contain pricey precious metals to split or control spent exhaust gases effectively, working in a hot corrosive and hostile environment.

Any questions how may we help?

Call us for details: Telephone: 905.795.0419


European Imports Diesel Service in Techmax Auto Repair Inc.

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Ester Core full synthetic motor oils from Motul.

After the success of the very first semi-synthetic lubricant for cars, Motul Century 2100 in 1966, Motul staked a claim on its passion for invention five years later with the original 100% synthetic lubricant made from esters of vegetal origin and drawing on aviation technologies.

Competition and various powerful partnerships helped to establish the colossal awards list and made the brand the global motorsport reference it is today. The passion and excitement of the racetrack also served as the ultimate testing ground for the most stringent requirements.

300V Motorsport line

Now using technology, Motul has developed the bespoke 300V Motorsport line for racing cars enabling the performance of each engine to be optimized in terms of the expected result, depending on the type of race, distance, engine fuel dilution, operating temperature or other specific parameters. Motul has also developed a specific 300V Factory line that delivers extra power, strong endurance and higher torque for motorcycle racing.

The 300V Motor sport range based on the unique ESTER Core® technology that gives unrivalled power increase, outstanding lubrication and optimal protection for any vehicle, creating the perfect conditions for any driving condition.

100% synthetic racing motor oil based on ESTER Core® technology

The 300V motor sport line improves performance of the latest generation engines along with high protection against wear, oil pressure drop and oxidation due to high temperature. Power and reliability, medium engine dilution.

Motul Synthetic motor oils

Most popular in our shop are the 300V Power racing, 5W30, 300V High RPM 0W20, 300V Power 5W-40, 300V Le Mans  20W60. There are more available.

Call us for details: Telephone: 905.795.0419


More info on Motul’s Ester Core full synthetic motor oils.

Motul’s Synthetic Motor Oils are in Group 5 Synthetic Oils.

Ester based for maximum protection and ultimate performance over all of the others. These real synthetic motor oils are entirely man made and provide an outstanding reliable extreme protection to any internal engine components. Continue Reading…

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The racetrack oriented 2020 AMG GTR-PRO

This week’s rare visitor was one of a kind, 2020 AMG GTR-PRO.  You can get this car for a quarter million dollars. The racetrack oriented PRO as the name states is fully “carbonated ” everywhere notwithstanding super-light forged magnesium alloys and weight optimization to the max. Carbon fiber torque tube from the engine to the transmission at the rear axle, dry sump lubrication and endless lightweight goodies.

577 Horsepower

The   R-PRO meant for race for the pro drivers only. Oh and not to forget your race license naturally. Why for pro drivers only? Because if you want to drive this car, you need lightning quick reflexes with exceptional driving skills to harness anything over 4 hundred horsepower on a rear wheel drive platform. And the AMG GTR-PRO is a rear wheel drive. Puts out solid 577 horsepower, and 516 pound-feet of torque. I would suggest driving gloves, because to wrestle this monster under your control will produce some really sweaty hands.

The GTR Pro comes with a 4.0-liter twin-turbocharged handmade (AMG formula one man one engine)  V-8 engine,  which is enough for 0-100 km acceleration in 3.5 seconds. The top speed is around 310 km/hour.

Only 150 ever assigned to the entire north America and the  car on the photo is 1 from that 150.

2020 Mercedes AMG GTR-PRO.

Mercedes AMG

For more photo check out our Facebook’s photo album.

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One Cracked AMG Rim. Unsafe to Drive.

The winter is almost over, but you should not change your winter tire yet.  There is a down side to driving on all season tires  on snowy, icy road. Some of our clients find this out on the hard way.  A small mistake might be very costly.

Every driver should know: Smaller the tire’s tread, smaller its biting edges and your tires will have less traction. For reliable braking and cornering performance at winter driving condition, on wet, snowy and or even icy road, you need good quality winter tire, not worn down all season tires.

The weekend weather took it’s toll, one cracked AMG rim. The replacement rim cost $1570.00 from MB, one bent alloy for late model 530 BMW cost of replacement $1230.00 + alignment.

How do you check a rim for any possible damage?

New wheel has arrived nice and shiny. Now the question remains: How do you check the other rims for any possible damage? In our high tech world, we have solution for almost everything. Meet our laser guided 3D tire balancer, check the next video out.

Yes, there was one more rim which is wobbly for now we made the best out of it. We do this all the time. To be able to make a smooth ride you need a precision machine which can pinpoint rim or tire defects and recommend match-mounting by dismounting the tire and remounting it to a specific spot on the rim to bring the highest point of the tire to the lowest point of the rim to get it close as possibly can to perfect.

Laser Guided Made in Germany Alignment Machine

Let me note it: This is our second machine of the same made. We use the first one about 20 years. Yes this balancer is 23 thousand dollars but precision and technical innovation has its price. We actually take it one step further by marking each wheel with their precise run out. It goes like this, the best wheel to the left front, 2nd best to right front, 3rd to the left rear and worst is the farthest away from you the driver.

Naturally when your wheel looks like the one on the video, with the multiple bubbles are toast, unsafe unfit for any use.

One of our other clients, bent his AMG suspension driving on summer performance tires. Even though his car is a 4 wheel drive, it was no match for the weather.

Click on the thumbnail to view bigger images.

Any questions how may we help? Call us for more details. Telephone: 905.795.0419


BMW  four wheels alignment

Our Hoffmann  laser Guided (German) Computerized 3D Alignment Machine

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Why does my engine burn oil?

Explanation continued in here, ICE (internal combustion engine) has been around for over a hundred years. Since the last oil embargo in the eighties governments decided to try to limit the amount of fuel being consumed by the engines. Later the EPA (environmental protection agency) started enforcing CAFE (corporate average fuel economy) to force the manufacturers to reduce the fuel consumption of the automobiles. Car manufacturers had to pay penalties so at the first opportunity the manufacturers decided to start with a clean sheet of paper immediately.

BMW N52 Engine

In the case of BMW it was 2006 with the E90 platform and N52 engine which was first time ever was designed and build with ultimate efficiency, the first of their new iteration of the efficient dynamics slogan.

Naturally the fuel economy standards kept getting more strict so they enacted accordingly which brought us to the new turbo era of the N55 and N20 engines. Let’s go back to the question why does this modern engines burn motor oil way more than the previous models decades ago?

This is all due to the maximum effort to provide fuel efficiency at the highest possible level.

How does all this work?

The N52 introduced the valvetronic system, the N55 introduced a refined version paired with twin scroll turbocharger and direct fuel injection. This all helps the ICE to operate at it’s highest efficiency level at any operating conditions. Naturally all the internal components has been reduced to the bare minimum and every component has been redesigned for minimal friction.

This is where the oil consumption comes in to the picture, by reducing the piston rings to the bare minimum, and reducing the piston ring tension to the same minimal pressure. The piston rings if just ever slightly get carboned up by infrequent oil changes or poor quality motor oil, just by topping it up cheap oil will jam the oil ring and the engine will start to consume more and more motor oil burning it up in the combustion chamber.

BMW N55 Pistons

Here are some relevant pictures of the N55 piston, as you can see the rings are extremely thin and the oil ring tension is next to nothing.

N55 also has a variable pressure oil pump to further reduce the internal load. Additionally the camshafts are hollow and the engine has been specified with a light weight motor oil to reduce the pumping losses even further. If you look closely you can see the rings are like stairs looking at them from the top down which showing the compression ring protruding out the most. The oil scraper ring in the middle is less so, and the oil ring at the bottom sticking out just barely which accounts for the least amount of ring tension.

Maintenance with The Best Lubricant

To make this jewels of engineering last some considerable time you need to give it the best possible care. Maintenance with the best lubricant you can afford and that should give you minimal oil burning and maximal peace of mind.

This is as always, a double edges sword, the clients want maximum power, the manufacturers are there to sell cars, and the government wants efficiency. It’s a difficult fight, a kind of tug of war to have your cake and eat it too, so to say.

I hope this helps, any question, how may we help? Call us for more details. Telephone: 905.795.0419


More info on, why car’s engines might burn oil.

The importance of proper oil changes

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Synthetic Motor Oil

Group-3, Group-4, Group-5!

What does it really means? Synthetic motor oil describes a process, not a material, let me explain. The general public thinks that all synthetic motor oils are the same, that is incorrect. Synthetic motor oil have 3 stages of the actual grade or level which is important to know.

Group 3 Synthetic Motor Oil

Group 3 synthetic motor oil is a highly refined petroleum based motor oil, usually made from decent quality base petroleum oil. The group 3 motor oil used to be called a regular motor oil, until a court case challenge many years ago by an oil manufacturer.

The important facts to know it’s based on petroleum oil, and the molecules are not as consistent as group 4 especially group 5 synthetic motor oils. Theoretically better than group 1 or 2.  Group 3 is made from a higher grade base stock, has a higher viscosity index, and in overall better performance than group 1 or 2, which makes sense.

Group 4 Synthetic Motor Oil

Group 4 motor oil a PAO or Poly Alpha Olefine or in other word a highly processed synthesized petroleum based motor oil which can tolerate higher temperature extremes, has a higher oil film strength.

Stage 4 or group 4 synthetic oil will need to have oil pressure to be built up to create a viable oil film and it doesn’t cling to metal, but because it’s based on mineral or petroleum based oil stock it’s relatively inexpensive to make in large quantities.

Group 4 synthetic oils are not meant to cling to metal parts, they will sort of roll off when the engine is stopped, so there is no standby protection whatsoever thereafter.

Furthermore group 4 PAO based motor oils will turn into a hard carbon deposit if pushed into the extremes, kind of turning back to a crude oil look alike dark carbon deposit clogging vital engine components in the process and will leave deposits as they burn inside the engine under elevated temperatures.

Liqui Molly Sythetic Motor Oils
Liqui Molly Synthetic Motor Oils

Group 5 Synthetic Oil

Group 5 is the real deal, Ester based for maximum protection and ultimate performance over all of the others. These real synthetic motor oils are entirely man made and provide an outstanding reliable extreme protection to any internal engine components.

Ester based synthetic motor oil has a static cling to metal parts by an electro chemical bond which is essential for any metal to metal component to get the maximum protection. This means before you start your engine there is already a film of lubricant present, no need to wait for an oil pressure to be built to reduce friction.

Should I say this Ester based synthetic oil came from aviation where reliability is at utmost importance.

Ester based true synthetic oils are used and tested, refined in extreme motorsports like 24 hours of Le Mans and other high end endurance racing where temperature extremes are the highest. The lubrication and wear resistance is 5 times higher than any other lubricant used hence the popularity of the real synthetic group 5 motor oil in motorsport.

Ester based motor oil, the real synthetic motor oil , will leave next to zero deposit if burned as it is the most tolerant of extreme pressures and temperatures at both end of the scale.

Ester based synthetic motor oil is much more expensive as it is made from renewable resources in very small batches, a more delicate and more expensive process which is reflected in the actual cost of the final product.

I hope this helps, any question, how may we help? Call us for more details. Telephone: 905.795.0419


Which one is right for your car? Which one is better? Synthetic or conventional motor oil?

The Importance of Oil Changes

Oil Recommendations by BMW

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Changes to Modern Car Engines. Motor Oils Standard

This is going to be clear as “mud”. I have been a licensed automotive mechanic since 1976 and still at it and the changes to engines and motor oils is incredible. This could get very long indeed, let’s say there are 2 major standards API and ACEA, the former is the American the later is the European lubricant standards. The Europeans started to create their own standards mainly driven by their car manufacturers as they found the API standards were not to their liking.

Please take a look at them by clicking on the links down below. (Your browser will open and load the page content in a new tab. To return to this page you should close that tab).

Fuchs Synthetic Motor Oil

Motor Oil Specifications classifications/oil-categories

If money is no object and you want the best keeping the oil specification grade in mind by the respective manufacturers than this is the best money can buy , group 5 ester based synthetic motor oils. Not recommended for diesels with DPF filter equipped vehicles! Take a look at it at here.

I have a small car repair facility in Mississauga, Ontario where we work on 3 brands: BMW, Mercedes and Porsche cars. There is a great push for efficiency from the manufacturers side especially since they pay penalty to the EPA, so they will try any trick in the book to reduce the internal friction and the pumping losses within the ICE as much as possibly can.


We have variable oil pump on say BMW since 2006 , every part, oil notwithstanding has been crucified to the finest details, hence we have 0-20 W oil for awhile now to reduce pumping losses. There used to be an intensive push from the regulatory side (EPA) to reduce fuel consumption which Europe used to trail behind,  not anymore.

Europe wanted to get more aggressive on regulating emission and fuel consumption ultimately driving forward to electrification.

Most manufacturers have their own “secret” recipe for their own proprietary motor oils which gets more and more complicated by the day.

For instance BMW has LL01 (older cars) then LL04 which is low SAPS which succeeds LL01 and were intended for diesels with DPF in mind but it is not recommended in NA for gas engines due to our Sulphur content in our gasoline per say. Then later we had an LL14+ and even later the LL17+.


Mercedes has 229.31, 229.51, 229.61, 229.71 (Diesel low SAPS) then 229.3,  229.5, 229.52, 229.6, 229.72. Does it look complicated enough?

This whole thing is in my opinion is completely out of hand and everyone will try to toot their own horn to their liking and you as the consumer it’s your responsibility to know what belongs in your lovely high tech state of the art engine.

For instance you get the oil level warning, with this little jewels and you need to top up your oil, most of them will have no dipstick to discourage you to put anything wrong in there. So good luck to you to find the appropriate lubricant at your gas station or department store lately.

Having put the wrong oil for instance 229.5 (the most common) oil into a DPF equipped diesel engine (229.51) will ruin the DPF by contaminating it with zinc which will render it defective and will void the warranty on your emission system in a hurry.

This whole silly stuff is all out on the window in my opinion in particularly in NA as people thumb their nose up on light efficient cars. Instead they want monster SUV  trucks or massive pick up trucks with gigantic gas guzzling engines. There is this huge tug of war between governments, car  manufacturers and the public.

The governments want electric cars, the public wants 800+ horsepower trucks, the car manufacturers are on the hook for making gas guzzlers.

We are also caught in between to provide the appropriate slur(oil) for the application,  you get the picture.

My only question is: Where is the common sense in all of this may I ask?

The problem with all this high tech stuff is, the general public has no idea as we often find wrong oils and filters has been installed elsewhere, in a lot of places they are not aware of this fancy specifications.

I hope this helps.  All the best, cheers.

Any questions, how may we help? Call us for more details: 905.795.0419


European import cars motor oil specifications.

What could be done wrong possibly with a simple oil change

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Maintenance issues with your car due to COVID.  

Most clients do not realize the amount of damage being created by parking and literally abandoning their cars. Please allow me to explain.

We have seen two major areas being problematic for cars, during COVID. The number one is the amount of brake jobs increased exponentially during the shut down and we have also seen more engine breakdown for the same reason.

The brakes get corroded as the vehicle sits for extended periods of time. The open iron surface will turn into a surface like rough sandpaper which will destroy the brakes in short order. Furthermore the thick rust build up also will cause severe brake vibration as well. The only cure is a complete brake rotor and pad replacement. To prevent this problem the owner must exercise the brakes vigorously on their vehicle at minimum 2 to 3 times a week.

The second issue we have seen: Clients driving their cars ultra short distances to buy groceries and supplies only. Which will not allow the engine to warm up to the point where it can get a proper circulation by boiling off excessive fuel and water being vaporized off from the motor oil.

Random cold start without proper warm up cycle will destroy internal components like bottom end bearings and might damage other vital internal components too. The rule if thumb is, once the engine is started it should run for 30 to 40 minutes and should be also exercised vigorously to elevate internal engine and oil temperature as part of a regular engine maintenance.

On the photo down bellow is a  Mini’s cylinder head and valves with severe carbon build up on .

Using  overly light weight, and / or poor quality oil  will accelerate the carbon build up. Notwithstanding poor fuel quality as oil vapor blow by, will burn onto the hot valves and the cylinder head. Visit our Facebook page for more photo.

Coolant and oil leak problem on Porsche Macan S.  Check out our Facebook for photos and details.

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The importance of fall vehicle maintenance. 

Brake Service – Brake RepairsBrake sets for German Import Cars.

We at Techmax offering original  import, aftermarket import and domestic brake parts to European import cars.  Products include quality brake pads, brake shoes, master cylinders, disc brake calipers, drums & rotors, cross drilled performance rotors, power brake boosters, wheel cylinders, brake hoses and hardware, brake cables and brake fluids. We have brake parts for any European import car.

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